Today was the day that was devoted to Haiti. So many of our other days are devoted to Haitians but this day was devoted to Haiti as a nation. It has quite the history and once again we were privileged to have an incredible guide and his wife with us. His knowledge of Haiti and passion for his country really brings a whole new level of appreciation to this country. 

The day began as every other day has begun, breakfast at Le Picolet. It’s such a lovely hotel that is full of personality. Tonight at dinner it was described as a little oasis in Haiti and really that is completely true. The rooms are charming, the lobby is very comfortable and welcoming, and there is this lounge/garden/thing that is absolutely wonderful to spend an evening in. In fact, we have pretty much ended every evening sitting there chatting under the lights and the canopy of trees. Last night, it even started raining as the night was winding up. It is a wonderful location. Back to breakfast though, it was shared again on a long table where we could all eat together. By now, the entire group has a level of comfort and camaraderie that just adds to the richness of this experience. Annie, the new director of the Reliv Kalogris Foundation, was the first one to join me at the table this morning (I’m always there first posting these blogs) and was shocked that she was first and nobody was there yet… until I reminded her that breakfast was 15 minutes later than usual. We had a good chuckle about this and the day was off to a good start. 

After breakfast, we all piled into the van that has been our trusty mode of transportation all week. Cyril and Dominique were our guides for the day and climbed aboard and soon we were off towards the Citadelle and the town of Milot. The road out there is actually very pleasant compared to many of the other treks we had taken this week. For the most part, the potholes were minimal as were the speed bumps (I’m not saying they did not exist). It seemed like in no time we had arrived at Milot and started the climb up the mountain. 

As we left Milot to climb up the mountain it was time to turn off the air conditioning in the van and open the windows. This is a very steep hill to get up to the Citadelle. Just on the outskirts of Milot is the remnants of what was once a palace for King Henri I (better known as Henri Christophe) of Haiti. Heading to the Citadelle, we passed on by this once beautiful palace and continued up the very steep hill. Quite often it felt like if the driver made one little mistake we would find ourselves dropping off a cliff. Thankfully, this didn’t happen though and eventually we made it to the entrance to what is basically the Citadelle national park, to use an American reference. It was at this point we changed modes of transportation. 

Once we had reached the entrance to the Citadelle (but not the Citadelle), it was time to decide how to get up the mountain. There are basically three options: walking, horseback riding, or a Rhino (supercharged off-road golf cart). A couple of people chose walking, a couple went aboard the Rhino, and then still others of us chose the horses. I soon found myself on the back of a beautiful horse that seemed to be younger and in better condition than many of the others. It had lots of energy as we headed up the mountain. This was good because what seemed steep in the van before now paled in comparison. The trip up the mountain was really beautiful and various people appeared along the way playing music or selling the wares. Two guides helped lead the horse up the mountain as well. This was probably a good idea as the trail really wasn’t that wide. It was very steep and often was right on the edge of a cliff. It is a place you don’t want to make a mistake. 

Finally we reached the top of the mountain and the entrance to the Citadelle fortress itself. After a banana from Dominique, our guide Cyril took us in what felt like a back entrance and the tour began. As we toured the Citadelle, we learned about Henri Christophe. We also learned that the Citadelle wasn’t the only fortress built by the freed Haitians but instead one of 22. There were many other lessons and stories told throughout the tour but the biggest take away I had this time around was how connected the Haitian slave revolt was to the French Revolution. I did not realize how the action that happened in France really were directly correlated to what was happening in Haiti. It was also interesting to learn more about how Haiti fit in to the bigger picture of what was then viewed as global politics. I’m definitely going to be reading more about these things upon my return to the United States. 

The tour ended and we made our way back down the mountain. The ride on the horse going down was a bit more exciting than the one going up but it was no problem and it was still definitely a fun adventure. Once at the entrance again we were set upon by lots of vendors looking to grab our attention. We did make our way through the little outdoor shopping area and found a couple of things before heading to the van. Once in the van, the still were trying to sell us thing. I’m not entirely sure if it was amusing or a bit over the top but it all was at least understandable. There really weren’t a lot of tourists there and the vendors seemed almost desperate for just about anything. I have a feeling that it is a case where there is too much supply and little to no demand. One hopes that things will improve but this is definitely one of those things in Haiti that makes you a little bit sad. When you think that a lot of people just make one dollar a day and then think about how much we in America make on a given day… or month… it really makes you wish you could just go and give everyone there a dollar. That wouldn’t be a good idea though as that would most likely set off a riot or something. Shopping done and everyone back in the van, it was time to head down the hill and to stop by the Sans-Souci Palace. This is one of the most beautiful places I’ve been to in Haiti I think. It was built by Henri Christophe to basically be his center of government. He built the palace to be able to accommodate all those from his government he would need, even the military. Now it is just ruins and absolutely beautiful! Cyril shared about the history of this complex from above and then we made our way into it. After a brief explanation in front, we had time to explore the ruins before lunch. What is left is basically an instagram photographer’s dream. What is left of the architecture is beautiful and leaves incredible shadows. One could easily spend a LOT of time taking pictures there. However, there were other things to get into the day and we were already behind… I think. 

After enjoying the Sans-Souci Palace, it was time for lunch. We walked into the town of Milot and then through it. We ended up climbing up about a hundred steps into the heart of a cultural center. Throughout the climb, there were paintings and other artistic creations being sold. At the top of the staircase, a Haitian band welcomed us with music as we entered a patio area where our lunch was to be served. The host for this meal was a very charming old man with a beard. He welcomed us to lunch and explained that we would be eating a traditional Haitian meal and that he wanted us to feel at home and basically told us that because we were eating at his house we were now part of his family. It was very charming. 

After this warm welcome we soon found ourselves eating some wonderful Haitian cuisine. The meal included some vegetables, different types of sweet potato, beef, chicken, rice, and some other incredible Haitian things that we have come to enjoy. Following lunch, we were served coffee and some sort of a coconut candy. Both were delicious. The coffee beans for the coffee were grown in our hosts backyard before being roasted and served to us. It was pretty cool realizing we were drinking coffee that basically was from the same place we were drinking it. Oh, and it was absolutely delicious! I would have no problems drinking that coffee every day!

Once lunch was done, it was time to head back to Cap Haitien. There was still more to see and more to do. First sop was the Cathedral in Cap Haitien. This is a beautiful building in the middle of town. We were hoping to tour it but by the time we had arrived, this was no longer possible. So instead we learned about it from Cyril as we stood in the park across the street and admired it. 

Our visit to the Cathedral over, it was time to do some shopping. During previous trips we had stopped at a very small market, however this place was no longer open. Soon we found ourselves right next to the commercial docks in a complex built to be a tourist market. People were very kind there but also pretty insistent that you come and look at what they have to sell. That’s ok though, that’s what we were there for. We made our way through the various booths making it to just about every one of them. I did end up buying a few things but we haggled a bit and got a fair deal. Haggling is absolutely essential in Haiti if you want to get a fair price. The price listed is more than likely way above the actual value of whatever you are trying to buy. The whole haggling thing though is definitely an acquired taste. I now find it to be one of the more enjoyable things to do in Haiti as I continue to grow and get better at it. 

Finally, all our adventures for the day were over and it was time to head back to the hotel… or so we thought. On the way back we also ended up going to the market and getting some vanilla and other little things you can’t get in the USA. The trip was mostly uneventful until we got back into the van and a little old man and what looked like his wife started asking for money or something. We soon found some granola bars to give them. The moment the granola bars came out though… wow, so did everyone else. Suddenly that side of the van had quite a few people all reaching for the granola bars. Thankfully the old man did indeed get his granola bar and I hope it helps him a little bit. 

The rest of the evening was spent in Le Picolet. It was an absolutely wonderful evening. The hotel food is absolutely awesome and I could eat here every day. The company was even more awesome though as we all sat around the table and talked about this trip, future trips, past trips, and basically anything trip related. Scott Montgomery, the Chairman of the Reliv Kalogris Foundation asked an awesome question about what surprised people the most coming to Haiti. The answers were very interesting to hear. The discussion wandered other ways as well but it was all awesome and just a beautiful evening. 

The evening wrapped up as most have, sitting in the corner couch in the garden under the lights and trees. This trip has been an absolutely fantastic trip. While it isn’t quite over yet and we have more to do tomorrow, I do have to marvel at how things have changed so much since the first time I came. The biggest change has probably been my perspective. The Reliv Kalogris Foundation does a LOT of good for a lot of children. There is still a LOT more to do but if one person helps one other person, soon things begin to change as people keep helping people and things grow on each other. I sincerely hope that is what is in store for the Reliv Kologris Foundation. It does far too much good for it to stay at the size it is. In fact, if you’d like to support the Reliv Kalogris Foundation, please visit here: relivkalogrisfoundation.org. It is a most worthy cause and a most needed cause. 

If you have anything else you’d like to know about this trip or what the Reliv Kalogris Foundation does in Haiti and around the world, please feel free to leave me a comment underneath this post as well. 

Tomorrow, we are visiting the St. John the Baptist school in Petite Anse. It is right next to the children’s home that we visited on Sunday when we first arrived. This trip, coupled with Sunday’s, should make for fantastic book ends to the trip. It’s hard to believe that this trip is almost over but it is time to get back and get to work and also support the Reliv Kalogris Foundation. 

About Post Author

Robert A. Laird

Robert A. Laird is an entrepreneur and also Executive Director - Creative for Shepherd's Grove Presbyterian Church/Hour of Power with Bobby Schuller where he oversees the television show of the same name. He also works with the Reliv Kalogris Foundation as it strives to feed starving children around the globe.

robert.laird@dapsmagic.com

http://robertlaird.me

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